A last-minute road trip turns into a hundred-and-one reasons to return to Tagaytay. Angela Mapa shares the top reasons on her list.
By Angela Mapa

More than just a place to enjoy the weather and take in spectacular views, Tagaytay is known for the myriad of food choices offered by the restaurants that have mushroomed around the city. Having grown up in the South (of Manila, that is), my friends and I are no strangers to Tagaytay food trips. However, being creatures of habit, our sojourns to Tagaytay had begun to take on a Groundhog Day-esque quality: lunch (soup, salad, and steak at Buon Giorno) followed by a Banofee Sundae at nearby FIC. Delicious, yes, but whatever happened to our sense of adventure?

To shake things up a bit, I used this article as an excuse for a spur-of-the-moment food trip. So last Saturday, my friends (who eat like hobbits) and I piled into a car and headed south.

Our first stop: Fling for yummy frozen yogurt. Even though we already had breakfast, we figured a Second Breakfast of yogurt and grains was just the thing. Fling’s awesome lychee yogurt is the perfect base for fresh fruit, cereal, or nuts. I had it twice that day, first with organic Cranberry Crunch cereal and whole almonds and later on with Guimaras mangoes and Baguio strawberries.

After Second Breakfast, it was time for First Lunch. Since this was a last-minute trip, a Vietnamese meal at by-reservation-only Bawai's was out of the question. While there’s no shortage of wonderful restaurants in Tagaytay, if you plan in advance, make sure you work Bawai’s into your day.

For First Lunch, we hopped on over to Tootsie’s for “Filipino fare”. Tootsie’s is not so much a Filipino restaurant as it is a restaurant that serves an odd mix of dishes that one might find on a Filipino’s table. The menu features an eclectic assortment of dishes that one would not think would ever work together—roast leg of lamb and pinakbet, Ceasar salad and grilled fresh maliputo, Iberian chicken and pancit molo—but somehow everything just happens to go gloriously well together. Family favorites of the Vargas clan (including some of Chef Ed Quimson’s creations), Tootsie’s food can be compared to the food made by your tita who cooks really well. Some signature dishes like the baked chicken and tilapia are only available on weekends but all items on the menu are worth trying. Though a number of choices at Tootsie's might be considered gourmet, there's nothing pretentious about this place. The atmosphere was so homey, we nearly forgot to pay!

After sitting back and rubbing our tummies for a wee bit, it was time for Lunch Number Two and we voted to go continental. Tagaytay has well-known Italian restaurants like Amoroma and Buon Giorno but we wanted something a bit more off the beaten track. Next on our list was La Cucinella, a hole in wall, for some linguine, parma ham, and asparagus tossed in heavenly truffle oil. Much to our dismay, we found that the place had closed! Berating ourselves for not having supported that hidden gem enough, we pressed on in hopes of finding an obscure yet operational Italian restaurant.

We drove and drove, crossed the border of Tagaytay into neighboring Alfonso and just past Splendido, caught sight of signs advertising Il Gallo Nero. With nothing to lose, we followed the signs to a little al fresco restaurant on the ground floor of a small hotel. All I can say is, “Yay for serendipity!” Il Gallo Nero proved to be a great find. Following our server’s recommendations, we ordered pizza and soup. If you’re a fan of crusty bread, you’ll love Il Gallo Nero’s pizza. The edge of the crust was amazingly crispy and I must have looked insane listening in fascination to the crunching sound I made with every bite. What's more, I kept stopping to sniff the crust's fragrant yeasty bread-smell. Good thing it was past 3 o'clock so only my friends (who are used to my creature-like eating habits) and the staff members (who were probably looking for some entertainment) were around. We split a generous serving of light but satisfying soup made with fresh mushrooms and sipped glasses of mildly floral iced tea. It was the first time for any of us to have Italian food in such a pastoral setting so we watched the cows graze in the distance as we munched in peace.

Not the type to call it quits after just two breakfasts and two lunches, we headed back into Tagaytay for more. Third Lunch was at LZM, a no-frills lutong-bahay joint on the top floor of a non-descript commercial center. House favorites include bulalo, crispy pata and a lovely, buttery, fried whole bangus. This is the place to visit if simple but downright delicious Pinoy grub is what you’re craving.

We seriously would have moved on to Lunch Number Four but the gods had other plans. We were looking forward to delicious Asian Fusion, Mediterranean, and contemporary Filipino food plus a dose of tranquility at T House but apparently someone else had the same idea and had beaten us to the punch. The entire place was booked for a wedding so we reluctantly walked away from the aroma of grilling meat wafting out of the kitchen. (Best wishes to the happy couple, though!)

Heeding the hint from above, we finally put stuffing our faces on hold and went to check out other things to do. The zip-line at the Picnic Grove looked fun and simple enough for even the most uncoordinated in our group to handle, but being extra full, we agreed to save zipping over the forest for another time. For those who want a view from up above but would rather do it at a less heart-stopping pace, the outfit also has guided cable car tours. In an outdoorsy mood, we tried to get into the Nature Discovery Camp but were told that a reservation was needed to enter the camp. So much for our attempts to commune with nature but at least we have two more things to add to our list of Things To Do in Tagaytay.

We would have stayed overnight for more food tripping but prior commitments called us back in Manila. So, laden with sweet corn, watermelons, and hydrangeas, we headed back home with visions of pineapples and buko pie dancing in our heads. We’re now cooking up plans for our next trip—overnight this time—to really get our fill of what Tagaytay has to offer.

One of the few times I stayed overnight in Tagaytay, I checked into Mi-Jo Room for Rent. A clean hostel in a quiet area just off the main road, Mi-Jo is comfortable and reasonably priced. Stay here if you are happy with the basics but, surprisingly, Mi-Jo offers spa services, shuttle & laundry services, and free wi-fi. Caveat for those who are particular about aesthetics: the interiors (mostly green) seem to have been done by the same person who does the interiors for the La Salle school system. For something more upscale, check out the following newly-opened places to stay:

Twin Pines Suites – Owned and run by a retired couple, this renovated house still feels like a home, so it’s perfect for those with namamahay issues. The coffee shop just offers breakfast at the moment but Twin Pines is walking distance from many restaurants. Though you don't get much of a view, you can hang out on the roof deck or in the pretty garden out back.

The Inn at Ciffhouse Tagaytay – A luxury B&B with four exclusive lighthouse-themed suites. All suites have enviable breath-taking views of the lake. You can enjoy the view from the comfort of your well-appointed suite or from your private balcony (one suite even has a hot tub on the balcony). The fluffy duvets and tons of down pillows make the beds look a little small but I still wanted to curl up under the covers.
T House – An other-worldly Zen-inspired retreat, T House has its own spa and restaurant so once you check in you won't have to leave ‘till it's time to head home.

View Park Hotel – A place to relax and unwind just across the street from the zipline jump-off point.

Amoroma Vecchia Roma Locanda B&B – Spacious rooms just above the resto for those who MUST stay a stone’s throw away from Italian food. Rooms rates won't break the bank and include Amoroma breakfast for two.
Whether you prefer swank and swish accommodations, camping out under the stars, or something in between, you'll find many a place to lay your weary head at the end of the day in Tagaytay. Staying the night gives you more time to eat, shop, visit places of worship, zip around overhead, go nature-trekking, get a massage, go on a boat ride, or whatever catches your fancy.

Forever a creature of habit, it seems I’ve found my new addiction.